Arrival in Asmara: A Step Back in Time

As I stepped off the plane at Asmara International Airport, I was immediately enveloped by a sense of nostalgia. The city, often referred to as “Little Rome,” is a living museum of Italian modernist architecture. My guide, Phil, was waiting with a warm smile and a wealth of knowledge that would soon make Eritrea feel like home. His calm demeanor and deep understanding of the country’s history and culture were evident from the start.

Our first stop was the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, a stunning example of Lombard-Romanesque architecture. The towering bell tower stood as a testament to the Italian colonial influence that has shaped much of Asmara’s architectural landscape. As a photographer, I was captivated by the intricate details and the stories they seemed to whisper. Phil’s insights into the cathedral’s history added layers of depth to my understanding, making each photograph more meaningful.

Next, we ventured to the iconic Fiat Tagliero Building, a futuristic masterpiece that defies gravity with its wing-like structures. Built in 1938, it stands as a symbol of Asmara’s unique architectural heritage. Phil’s connections in the city allowed us access to some of the best vantage points, ensuring I captured the building’s grandeur in all its glory. As we strolled along Liberation Avenue, the vibrant atmosphere and the aroma of freshly brewed Eritrean coffee filled the air, offering a sensory delight that was impossible to resist.

Immersing in Eritrean Culture: From Markets to Festivals

The following day, we journeyed to Keren, a town known for its vibrant camel market and rich history. The market was a bustling hub of activity, with traders and buyers engaging in animated negotiations. The sight of camels, adorned with colorful decorations, was a photographer’s dream. Phil’s familiarity with the locals made it easy to navigate the market, capturing candid moments that told stories of tradition and commerce.

Our timing was impeccable, as we arrived during the Blieni tribe’s festival. The air was filled with the rhythmic beats of traditional music, and the vibrant colors of the dancers’ attire were mesmerizing. Participating in the festival was a privilege, offering a glimpse into the cultural tapestry that defines Eritrea. Phil’s ability to facilitate these authentic experiences was invaluable, allowing me to document the celebration with respect and admiration.

In the evening, we explored the Enda Mariam Orthodox Church, a significant cultural landmark. The church’s architecture was a blend of traditional and modern influences, reflecting the diverse history of the region. As the sun set, casting a golden hue over the city, I felt a profound connection to the place and its people.

Discovering Massawa: A Journey Through Time

Our adventure continued to Massawa, a city steeped in history and resilience. The architecture here told tales of past conflicts and triumphs, with Ottoman and Italian influences evident in the buildings. The Tank Graveyard, a poignant reminder of Eritrea’s complex history, was a somber yet essential stop. It served as a powerful reminder of the country’s journey towards peace and independence.

Phil’s knowledge of Massawa’s history was unparalleled, and his storytelling brought the city’s past to life. As we wandered through the streets, I was struck by the resilience of the people and their unwavering spirit. The local cuisine was a delightful surprise, with flavors that were both familiar and exotic. Sharing a meal with Phil and the locals was a highlight, offering a taste of Eritrean hospitality that was as warm as the sun-drenched landscape.

As our journey came to an end, I reflected on the beauty and complexity of Eritrea. The country’s architectural gems, vibrant culture, and welcoming people had left an indelible mark on my heart. With Phil’s guidance, I had experienced Eritrea in a way that was both thrilling and sustainable, capturing its essence through my lens. As I boarded my flight back home, I knew that Eritrea was a destination I would return to, eager to uncover more of its hidden treasures.