Crossing the Green Line: A Journey Through Time

The journey across the Green Line to Famagusta was a profound experience, one that I had long anticipated. As a former university professor of European history, the opportunity to explore the ancient ruins and ghostly remnants of Northern Cyprus was irresistible. My wife and I embarked on this journey with a sense of excitement and curiosity, eager to delve into the layers of history that define this region.

Our guide, Vassos, was a wellspring of knowledge, providing us with insights into the complex history of Cyprus. As we traveled from the sea into the mountains, the landscape unfolded like a tapestry, revealing the island’s rich and tumultuous past. The journey was long, but the vistas of relocated villages like Achna and the sight of Turkish soldiers on patrol along the Green Line brought the reality of Cyprus’s partition into sharp focus.

The ancient city of Salamis was our first major stop, and it did not disappoint. The grand theatre, Roman baths, and gymnasium stood as testaments to the city’s historical significance. Walking among these ruins, I could almost hear the echoes of ancient voices, a reminder of the empires that once thrived here. However, I couldn’t help but notice the lack of modern facilities, a stark contrast to the historical grandeur surrounding us.

Famagusta: A City of Contrasts

Our exploration of Famagusta’s walled city was a journey through time, from the Gothic-Ottoman architecture of St. Nikolaos Cathedral to the medieval streets lined with Venetian walls. The city, though eerily quiet, was a treasure trove of history waiting to be discovered. As we wandered through the streets, I was struck by the juxtaposition of ancient ruins and modern-day life.

The opportunity to shop and enjoy a traditional Cypriot-Turkish lunch added a delightful touch to our visit. While some in our group were drawn to the local liquor and cigarettes, I found joy in purchasing a football kit for my son and some Turkish delight for my wife. The quiet streets of Famagusta, in stark contrast to the bustling city of Pafos, offered a serene backdrop for reflection.

Our guide, Vassos, shared with us the lived reality of the Greek Cypriot people, their stories of loss and division resonating deeply with my own understanding of European history. The partition of Cyprus is a complex and sensitive topic, and Vassos navigated it with sensitivity and conviction, providing us with a deeper understanding of the challenges faced by the island’s inhabitants.

Varosha: The Ghost City

The final leg of our journey took us to Varosha, the ghost city frozen in time since 1974. As a historian, I was particularly drawn to this part of the tour, eager to witness the remnants of a once-thriving resort town. The recently tarmacked roads and beach bar seemed incongruous with the abandoned buildings, a stark reminder of the island’s turbulent past.

Walking through the silent streets of Varosha, I was struck by the eerie stillness, the crumbling facades of hotels and homes standing as silent witnesses to the passage of time. The warnings against straying beyond the main roads served as a sobering reminder of the ongoing tensions that continue to shape the region.

As we left Varosha and made our way back to the south, the contrast between the Turkish settlers’ homes and the abandoned churches and schools was a poignant reminder of the island’s divided history. This journey, expertly guided by Vassos, offered a unique and thought-provoking glimpse into the complex tapestry of Cyprus’s past and present.

In conclusion, the Northern Cyprus Tour was an unforgettable experience, one that enriched my understanding of Cyprus’s rich and complex history. For those with a passion for history and a desire to explore the hidden corners of Europe, this tour is a must.